Click here for a Google Map of our GR58 trek
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Feeling pleased atop Le Petit Col de Malrif
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After settling into our comfortable digs here in lovely Guillestre (an 18th century house renovated by my sister and her partner over the past decade) in late August (after realizing that we could be reuinted in Europe), Terri and I decided that we needed to take advantage of the wonderful outdoor playground that surrounds the town. After poring over topographical maps, we decided to hike around the GR58, a long-distance hiking trail that loops 110 kilometres around the Queyras region, the territory that lies upstream of Guillestre along the Guil River. We had nibbled at the edges of the Queyras back in 2013 when we cycled the Col d'Izoard and the Col Agnel, but this was going to be an in-depth inspection of all the corners of the area, and we were keen to get out and explore.
Day 1 (Sept. 3): Ceillac-St. Veran
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| The first signpost of the trek |
We spent the day before the trip packing, repacking and getting food ready for our hike. We carried full camping gear, with about 5 days' worth of food and 2 litres of gasoline for cooking on my MSR stove. I am used to carrying full packs from years past, but I have to confess that carrying this year's 24 kilograms was a bit rough that first morning. (I was carrying the tent, all the cooking equipment and half of the stove, so I was the expedition Sherpa.) It's possible, of course, to travel far lighter if you sleep indoors at a refuge or a gite every night, but it's also quite a bit more expensive and restricts where you can spend the night. I prefer to carry a bit more gear and have the ability to camp wherever strikes my fancy. As the saying goes, "The price of a nomad's freedom is the weight of the pack on his back."
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The hills were alive with butterflies every day
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| Villard |
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On the way up the Col des Estronques
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We drove out to Ceillac that morning under cloudless skies. We found a place to leave the car for 8 days, pulled on our boots, donned our backpacks and set off upstream. Unlike hiking in Georgia, the French hiking routes are extremely clearly marked, with red and white paint markings on rocks and trees and big yellow signs at trail junctions. We ambled along, past the tiny hamlet of Villard which had been wiped out by massive rockslides in 1982 and lovingly restored. After a while our path turned determinedly uphill and we laboured up a series of switchbacks to the Col des Estronques, at 2661 metres above sea level, a vertical kilometre above our starting point. We took a few photos at the top, then started down the other side towards St. Veran, under a series of impressive cliffs, occasionally getting off the path to let some very skillful mountain bikers fly past downhill. A riverside meadow beckoned us to stop for a late picnic lunch of bread, cheese and soft-boiled eggs before we continued downhill. We had no desire to sleep in the ski resort of St. Veran, so when the path got down to about 1950 metres and crossed a stream, we scouted out a good spot to pitch a tent. A tasty dinner of leftover fajitas from the night before was followed by a post-prandial brandy from the PET bottle in the side pouch of my pack before we turned in, a bit sore and tired from the novelty of carrying heavy packs.
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Atop the Col des Estronques with my big pack
 | Mountain bikers flying down the GR58
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The scenery on the way down to St. Veran
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Day 2 (Sept. 4): St. Veran to Lac Foreant
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Terri on the climb to the Col de Courbassiere
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Pointe de Cornascle
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We slept soundly, tired out by the first day of walking, and awoke to a cool, dewy morning. We cooked up some oatmeal porridge for breakfast, packed up and continued our descent towards the river and St. Veran on the opposite bank. Rather than climb into the village, we elected to keep walking upstream along the south bank, through a lovely forest interrupted by a series of beautiful glades. Eventually we climbed out of the trees and into a landscape of meadows grazed by the occasional flock of sheep or herd of cows. It was another day of glorious sunshine, and we paused below Chapelle de Clausis, a remote, pretty chapel, for a mid-morning snack before tackling the highest pass of the GR58, the 2884-metre-high Col de Chamoussiere.
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Pain de Sucre
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We made steady progress up towards a broad saddle where we found dozens of hikers lying in the grass sunbathing and having lunch. We found our own spot and settled in for another substantial picnic while gazing across at probably the most impressive mountain scenery of the trip, the nearby Pain de Sucre and the slightly more distant but much higher Monte Viso, just across the frontier in Italy. Below them and to the left snaked the long road leading to the Col Agnel, at 2744 metres the third-highest true highway pass in Europe, a road which Terri and I had ridden back in 2013.
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Me with the Pain de Sucre and Monte Viso
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Saxifraga azoides below the col
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Terri crossing scree below the Agnel
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Our hunger satiated, we descended toward the Refuge Agnel, anticipating a cold beer and a place to pitch our tent. Instead we found the doors shut as the staff took their sacred midday siesta, so instead of waiting around, we climbed a few hundred metres up over the Col Vieux and descended to the stunning tiny jewel of Lake Foreant. We found a flat spot and pitched our tent near the water's edge, admiring the smooth rock slabs of La Taillante towering above us and, around sunset, capturing near-perfect mirror reflections of the mountains on the glassy surface of the tarn. It was an idyllic spot to spend the night, although I could have done without the overzealous sheepdog who came around several times in the night to bark at us and at the other two tents pitched nearby.
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Terri atop the Vieux Col with La Taillante behind
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First view down towards Lac Foreant
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| A campsite with a view for our Big Agnes tent |
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Reflection on Lac Foreant
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Day 3 (Sept. 5): Lac Foreant-Abries
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| Reflection in Lac Egorgeou |
We awoke a bit groggy after the canine ululations, breakfasted in the chilly shadow of the Crete de la Taillante, packed up and started the long descent towards the Guil river from our eyrie at 2600 metres above sea level. We dropped down to Lac Egorgeou, another beautiful tarn some 250 metres below. Like Foreant, much of the area around the lake is a nature reserve set up to protect rare plant species. From there we walked relentlessly downhill towards the hamlet of l'Echalp where we joined a broad valley and could finally swing our legs rather than picking our way down precipitous drops.
Here we decided to skip a section of the GR58. The path takes a long, high loop up above the river, then drops back down to Abries, only a few kilometres downstream from l'Echalp. Instead, we tramped along the road and the river, stopping in at La Monta and Ristolas in unsuccessful attempt to buy bread before we trudged down into the larger town of Abries, where we stayed in a commercial campground, did laundry in an actual washing machine, bought supplies for the road and ate pizza before sleeping soundly.
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| Gentian |
Day 4 (Sept. 6): Abries-Les Fonds de Cervieres
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A thatch bear in Abries
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| Stations of the Cross, Abries |
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| Scotch argus butterfly |
Refreshed by our afternoon off from walking (and our day without any serious ascents), we awoke on Sept. 6th ready for the biggest climb of the GR58, from Abries (at 1550 metres) up to the Petit Col de Malrif, at 2820 metres. It was another day of perfect sunny weather, and the scenery on the way up was beautiful. The town of Abries is obsessed both with building elaborate scarecrows out of thatch, and with bears. We ate our morning pain-au-chocolat sitting beside a bear scarecrow in the main square before setting off. We climbed steeply out of town (appropriately enough starting off along a Stations of the Cross path leading up to a church above Abries), then angled more gently across the hillside and up into the once-abandoned hamlet of Malrif, where a couple of old farmhouses have been lovingly restored. It was an idyllic, bucolic setting beside a rushing stream, and we paused for a snack a little further upstream in a clearing, gazing up at the steep climb to come.
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Lovely Malrif
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| Le Grand Laus and its Mediterranean colours |
The path wound uphill in a series of extremely steep switchbacks; from time to time we would stop and look up and see, hundreds of vertical metres above us, brightly coloured backpacks lurching along narrow goat trails. Finally, our legs tired out by hours of climbing, we wobbled around a ridge and found the improbably blue and green waters of Le Grand Laus, a sizeable lake, waiting for us. We sheltered out of the searching wind and ate lunch, gazing up at the final climb to come. It took about an hour to reach the Petit Col de Malrif, where another trekker got a rare photo of Terri and me together before we descended down into a wide-open deserted valley that reminded me of Kyrgyzstan. We found a perfect campsite amongst a pile of boulders, surrounded by golden grass stalks, set up our tent and sat watching the sunset while cooking up a memorable feast of bacon, fried eggs and (instant) mashed potatoes. Marmots frolicked and called among the rocks, and we felt content with our place in the awe-inspiring mountain backdrop.
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| Looking back at the gusts on Le Grand Laus |
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| Great scenery from atop Le Petit Col de Malrif |
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| Another great campsite |
Day 5 (Sept. 7): Les Fonds-Brunissard
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A beautiful Ranunculus sp.
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Climbing up the Col de Peas
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| Atop the Col de Peas |
We were about an hour's walk above a small village, Les Fonds, which we reached around 10:00 the next morning before turning uphill towards the first pass of the day, the Col de Peas. We were dubious about the weather that day, and so we stormed uphill, our legs finally feeling as though we were walking them into shape. The valley was more or less deserted, aside from a distant shepherd and his dogs and sheep, and we climbed fairly steeply until we reached a broad saddle at 2629 metres, nestled below the reddish crenellations of the peak of Rochebrune. This section of the GR58 actually lies outside of the Queyras region, but in crossing the Peas we were re-entering it. The scenery was grand, and the section of the path running north from the Peas was one of the most exhilarating parts of the entire walk, giving a sense of infinite space as we strode along a broad, grassy ridge. Eventually we reached a larch forest and descended a long series of switchbacks into the small village of Souliers, where we splurged on craft beer and a small, delicious chocolate cake.
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| On the beautiful descent from the Peas |
We decided to make our way up the next valley towards the small Col de Tronchet, only a few hundred metres above the river. We passed a series of perfect riverside campsites, but with our legs feeing strong and the weather still looking dubious, we decided to camp on the other side of the pass. This was a poor decision in retrospect, as there was not a drop of water to be found anywhere. We trudged wearily down another steep path into Brunissard late in the afternoon, keen to buy some bread, only to find that the village doesn't have a single store. We camped at dusk in a small clearing on the edge of a pine plantation that wasn't terribly flat and was (as we discovered in the morning) a mecca for slugs. It had been a long day, and this was, for once, a sub-ideal campsite, but we had a meal of lentils that Terri had cooked up two days earlier in Abries that we could heat up quickly before crawling into bed.
Day 6 (Sept. 8): Brunissard to Furfande
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| Rugged ridge on the climb up the Col de Furfande |
Packing up the next morning was slowed down by the need to find and remove dozens of slugs that had crawled all over the tent and anything left outside; we kept finding dried-out slug cadavers for the next two days. Once again we deviated from the GR58 in search of sustenance, walking quickly down the main road (the one that leads uphill to the famous Col d'Izoard, so a road full of road cyclists, motorcyclists and assorted tourists) to the main local centre of Arvieux, where we found a well-stocked grocery store and bought a final assortment of snacks and bread for the last 3 days of the trek.
After gorging ourselves on a Hobbitesque second breakfast outside the shop, we shouldered packs and set off towards the Col de Furfande (2500 metres). It was a bit of a trudge at first, but eventually we turned into a dramatic cliff-lined valley and started climbing steadily to the Col de Furfande which we reached around 1:00. The views to the south were dramatic, but also surprising. A jeep road had run up the valley beside us the whole way, and there was a surprising number of cars parked there. We realized that the various chalets in the alp below us brought in people and supplies this way. Looking further away, we could see the various peaks that we had passed under on the first days of the trek, and could trace the remaining parts of our journey.
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| Looking north from the Furfande towards the Izoard |
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| Descent from the Col de Furfande |
We lunched on soft-boiled eggs, tinned sardines, salad and fresh bread (the benefits of having been inside a grocery shop three hours earlier) before descending into the small plateau below. We collected water at the Refuge de Furfande, then walked another 15 minutes downhill to a likely-looking spot to pitch a tent. It proved to be perfect, with a vertigo-inducing view a kilometre down into the gorge of the Guil river. We dined on sausages, fried eggs and mashed potatoes and sat outside toasting the sunset colours on the surrounding peaks with a snifter of brandy before climbing into our sleeping bags.
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| Our eyrie |
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| The rugged cliffs above our campsite |
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| A well-earned fry-up! |
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| The view just before sunset |
Day 7 (Sept. 9): Furfande-Ceillac
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| Morning pancakes |
We were awakened a couple of times in the night by strong winds rattling the tent, and we awoke unexpectedly late to cloudy skies. The weather seemed to be turning, so we decided to compress the last two stages of the trek into one long day and try to make it to Ceillac and our car by the end of the day, rather than risk a rainy night in the mountains. To fuel ourselves for this endeavour, Terri cooked up pancakes which we ate slathered with the last of our butter and honey.
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| Centranthus angustifolius |
Full of energy, we took down the tent (for once we got to put it away dry, as the wind prevented a buildup of dew on the fly) and set off downhill. The big challenge of the day was the long descent to the Guil, followed by a thousand-metre ascent to the final pass of the trek, the Col de Bramousse. We set off downhill, along a track that wound its way down an almost vertical descent to the village of Les Escoyers. At that point we abandoned the footpath and made our way down the relentless switchbacks of an asphalt road, as the GR58 track bore alarming warnings to mountain bikers and horse riders to stay off. Given the fearless nature of some of the mountain bike descents we had seen, it sounded more vertical than we wanted to face!
At 1200 metres' elevation we finally came out on the main highway, crossed over a small bridge and repeated the process up an equally precipitous slope up to the village of Bramousse. We pressed on, setting a relentless pace, and got to the top of the Col de Bramousse around 3:00. It was a broad, grassy meadow on the other side and we stopped for a final picnic lunch before hurrying downhill under leaden skies to our waiting car. By 4:30 we were headed back to Guillestre, our legs weary and our stomachs growling for food.
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| Echium sp. |
It was a fabulous week of hiking. It felt good to be carrying our own gear and camping where we chose, and my body, after some initial soreness, got used to carrying a heavy pack again. I felt a lot fitter afterwards, after too many months of not enough exercise in Tbilisi. We were very lucky with the weather: not too hot during the day, not too cold at night, brilliant sunshine for six of the seven days, and not a drop of rain. The views were stunning, with an endless sea of rugged peaks in all directions, punctuated by sapphire lakes and tumbling mountain brooks. The last wildflowers of summer provided splashes of colour, as did a surprising array of butterflies and grasshoppers. The walking was challenging (more or less every day saw at least a thousand vertical metres of climbing) but the paths were well-maintained and perfectly marked. The Queyras may not be France's most famous or highest mountain region, but it certainly kept us entertained with great views. I would recommend it highly to anyone keen on a challenging week in the mountains. It also left both of us keen to do more of the various GR routes that criss-cross France and several neighbouring countries.
