Martigny, April 23rd
Terri and I arrived in Livingstone, Zambia on March 8th, more than six weeks ago. It’s funny to think that since I left Leysin last June, I had not spent three weeks in one place at one time until our three-week sojourn in Livingstone, and it seems unlikely that I will spend three weeks in any other place for a long time to come. It felt as though I had given up my nomadism for a while, but since then we have restarted our peregrinations in South Africa, so it’s normal service resumed.
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Terri, Angela and the 15 Kumon students at Victoria Falls
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After two enjoyable weeks at my mother’s place in Ottawa and another week in Thunder Bay visiting my father, getting a flavour of the winter that I have missed by being in the southern hemisphere (although Ottawa has had a record-breaking El Nino-fuelled warm winter), I flew to London overnight on March 6th-7th and had ten hours between flights, so I hopped on the Tube and headed into the city to visit my friend Sean and his girlfriend Shelby. We had an outrageously good tapas lunch at a restaurant in Katherine’s Wharf, a tiny chic yacht harbour tucked away near the Tower of London. It was good to see Sean, whom I last saw in Bali 18 months ago. We have crossed paths all over the world, from France to Egypt to London to Japan to Bali, ever since we met as bicycle tour guides working for Butterfield and Robinson back in 1997. Sean had to hurry back to work, but I still had a few hours, so I went to the Botticelli Reimagined exhibition at the Victoria and Albert Museum. The first part of the exhibit was kind of strange: 20th century uses of Boticelli’s Birth of Venus in all sorts of post-modernist settings. The second part showed how the Pre-Raphaelites were influenced in the late 19th century by Botticelli, and was more interesting. The main part of the exhibit, paintings and drawings by Botticelli himself, was fantastic, even if The Birth of Venus and the Allegory of Spring weren’t there as the Uffizi in Florence wouldn’t let them go. I really liked the painting of La Bella Simonetta, the young mistress of one of the Medici. Then it was time to snooze my way back to Heathrow on rhw and the next leg of my trip, refreshed by a few hours of companionship and culture.
The flight to Johannesburg was uneventful, and once there, I met up with Terri, who had flown in from New Zealand a few hours earlier. We had a reunion, catching up on the past three weeks, and then got on separate flights back north to Livingstone. I was stamped into my 123rd country and emerged to find Terri waiting with Mr. Sakala, the driver/advisor who has worked with Terri on her Zambian trips since 2007. We drove to YCTC, a youth vocational training centre run by the local Catholic diocese, and settled in for our long stay.
Terri has been running a humanitarian trip for students from her former school since 2007, bringing in Japanese high school students to do work at a small pre-school that she has been funding for the past 9 years. Even though she no longer works in Switzerland, the school ran a trip this year and we were on hand to help run it. In contrast to previous years, we arrived a good 10 days before the students to give Terri a chance to do some time-consuming bureaucratic work and keep an eye on the construction of a new classroom building. I had never visited Zambia, and had been hearing about this project for years, so when we both left our jobs last June to travel, we decided that it was a perfect chance for me to see the pre-school in action.
My first impressions of Zambia were of heat, rain and a strange déjà vu. I lived in Tanzania back in 1981-2, when my father worked for 2 years at a university in Morogoro. Morogoro is on the train line and road leading to Zambia, and we would see heavily-laden copper trucks roaring along the road whenever we drove out of town. Looking around Libuyu, the poor neighbourhood of Livingstone in which YCTC is located, I could have been back in Tanzania 35 years ago. There were a few differences; cell phones have arrived in a big way, and the cars are all Japanese instead of the Peugeots, Volkswagens and Land Rovers I remembered, but the shanty towns, the women walking long distances with heavy loads on their heads, the dirt roads, the huge numbers of children and the Asian-owned shops were all familiar sights. Although Zambia is held up as an example of Rising Africa (the 15-20 sub-Saharan countries that have shown sustained economic growth since about 2000), in the outskirts it looks more like Stagnant Africa. Long line-ups at service stations for scarce gasoline, frequent power cuts and complaints of official corruption were drearily similar to my childhood memories.
I had never done voluntary humanitarian work, and I have to confess that my two adolescent years in Tanzania left me a bit skeptical of the entire aid industry, which too often seems to degenerate into empire building and boosting home-country industries, rather than bringing about lasting improvement in the lives of people in the target country. Terri’s ongoing project in the poor neighbourhood of Ngwenya, though, was quite different.
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Some of the output of the Ngwenya quarries |
It’s run on a shoestring, using money raised by students at her former school, the Kumon Leysin Academy in Switzerland (KLAS, or Kumon). Students, Terri and (this year) her successor Angela raise money by selling snacks at school, running bake sales and a big charity raffle. This year Angela and some of her enterprising students took fundraising to a whole new level with enthusiasm, persistence and the clever use of online fundraising tools, and raised far more than had ever been raised in a single year before. That money, of course, goes far further in Zambia than in overpriced Switzerland and has a huge effect on the lives of over 100 pre-school and lower elementary pupils at the newly re-named Olive Tree Learning Centre. The money goes to pay for half of the salaries of the teachers and staff at the school, as well as for the school lunch program and for occasional capital projects, such as the construction this year of a new building which will double the available classroom space.
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Brenda, the hand-washing monitor at Olive Tree |
It might well be asked why a project that has been running for 9 years still needs ongoing funding support; one of the great complaints about aid and humanitarian projects is that they never become self-funding. I had the task of having a look at the financial books this year and essentially the school funds about half of its ongoing expenses through school fees which, at 130 kwacha (about 12 US dollars) per term, or 36 dollars a year, are very modest but still beyond the very modest means of many parents in what is a very low-income area where huge family sizes are the norm. If the school were to charge 300 or 400 kwacha a term (some of the schools for better-off students in Livingstone charge more like 600 kwacha a term), it would cover its expenses, but would in the process price out the very students that Terri has always wanted to help the most.
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School lunch line: same as anywhere in the world |
About a quarter of the students who attend the Olive Tree do so free of charge, as the school management feels that their families are too poor to be able to pay any fees at all. The others pay a low fee that helps fund the school without making it a school just for the better-off. The additional funding brought in by Kumon students is the difference between having another school for lower-middle-class pupils and having a school that makes a huge difference in the lives of the poorest children in a tough neighbourhood.
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Olive Tree students |
The big construction project this year took up a lot of time and organizational effort. Essentially a three classroom building, with two classrooms for the expansion of the school up to grade four and one multipurpose room that could be used for adult education or for income-generating activities to increase the self-funding capacity of the school, was being built from the ground up. We watched the building rise from the extra plot of land that had been purchased a couple of years earlier. One builder, a few permanent staff and some casual labourers methodically moulded construction blocks from sand and cement, laid a big concrete foundation slab and then began laying courses of blocks. It all happened remarkably quickly, in a matter of perhaps six weeks in total. What amazed me was the cost. A fairly sturdy construction, tons of sand and concrete, doors, gates, windows, many man-weeks of labour, and it was all done for under US$10,000. The same building would have cost 25 times as much in Switzerland, and 10 times as much in Canada. Of course, the fact that building labourers work for 20 or 30 kwacha a day helps keep costs down.
At any rate, we watched the building foundations being prepared for the big day of concrete laying as we waited for the Kumon students to arrive. Justin, the contractor, worked harder than any of his labourers laying blocks, mixing mortar and shoveling sand. He had conferences with Mr. Sakala, our driver, who had been a builder in his day and was a masterful jack of all trades; they discussed the design of the building, the height of the concrete slab, the supply of bricks and sand. I even got in on the act, trying to estimate the number of blocks we would need to produce, and hence the quantity of sand and cement we would need.
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Starting to lay the foundation of the new school building |
The pre-school itself, still called the Little Angels Pre-School (the Olive Tree re-naming would happen while the Kumon students were there) was a hive of activity whenever we visited. The school consisted of a main building with two classrooms and a tiny office, a cookhouse that had one room being used as a classroom during the construction (which had claimed one classroom as a storeroom for construction materials), a couple of latrines for the students and a chicken coop where the school supplemented its meagre income from school fees by raising chicks to adult size and then selling them for 45 kwacha (US$ 4) each. It was a mildly profitable business that kept the otherwise chronically underemployed security guard busy.
It seems as though every humanitarian endeavour in Livingstone has a similar income-generating activity (IGA, in the parlance) going to supplement funds from overseas donors. Chicken raising is a popular one, along with sewing, vegetable farming and an Italian restaurant (Olga’s) that was founded to help support YCTC, the Catholic diocese’s training centre for underprivileged youth. It’s a worthwhile idea to help projects become self-sustaining, but these IGAs run the risk either of not making enough money, or of falling into disrepair due to lax oversight. Olga’s was apparently not making nearly the money that had been forecast, while YCTC’s IGAs (making furniture and selling clothing) were languishing because of cutbacks, lack of motivation and quality-control issues.
The Olive Tree is attended full-time by two classes of pre-schoolers, and two half-day classes of grades 1 and 2. The enrolment of almost 120 is about eight times what it was in 2007 when Terri got involved in the project, and the school is thriving. The three full-time teachers run their classes with lots of energy and enthusiasm while the school lunch program for the pre-school classes has the pupils looking well-fed and healthy. One day, walking around the Ngwenya neighbourhood around the school, Terri and I saw a number of students with the orange hair and bulging abdomens that are tell-tale signs of protein-poor diets and malnutrition. I was amazed that the school was able to feed 70 kids four lunches a week on a budget of about US$100 a month. That’s basically about 10 US cents a meal. The staple starch of Zambia, maize-flour porridge called nshima (think of polenta) is unbelievably cheap, and it is supplemented by green vegetables, dried fish and beans. And yet, despite these low prices, many of the parents of the neighbourhood, working piecework for the rock quarries of the area, are unable to provide enough food for their extensive families. The school lunch is vital for the pupils, almost more important than the educational opportunities that are also on offer. It amazes me how little money it can take to make a real, tangible difference in the lives of so many children.
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A joyful, tearful reunion between Terri and Miss Bwaliya |
When we weren’t visiting the Olive Tree-to-be, we went to town to do grocery shopping, to buy construction materials and paint, and to visit some of the circle of friends and acquaintances that Terri has amassed over the years of coming to Livingstone. The no-nonsense Irish nuns of the Little Sisters of St. Francis, Sisters Frances and Fidelma, provided interesting conversation and insight into the problems of trying to run charitable programs in Zambia. Mr. Sakala gave us stories of economic mismanagement and official corruption. Ms. Bwaliya, a dear friend who used to work at YCTC, told stories of her family and community that were straight out of Dickens or Victor Hugo, full of poverty, disease, untimely death and horrible crime; I was amazed at her ability to keep going and keep smiling in the face of such adversity. Zambia has a huge number of orphans whose parents have died young of AIDS, and yet seems to have almost no street kids sleeping rough at night; the extended family takes in the orphans, swelling already large families to Biblical proportions.
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Saying hello to students at Luumono Elementary School |
The main complaints that Zambians have about their country and their government are those that you might expect: shortages of running water, electricity and gasoline; official corruption; a lack of jobs for graduates; and misguided economic policies that have hollowed out the small industrial base that once existed. While economic growth has occurred over the past 15 years, its benefits do not seem to have been very widely spread. There is still widespread and obvious poverty, and now that copper prices have fallen off a cliff and the copper mines that were once the leading exports are mothballed, and with a drought driving up prices of corn flour, many people are struggling more than before to make ends meet. The story of decisions made in the 1990s to allow imports of cheap used Japanese cars and cheap second-hand Asian clothing were interesting and a bit depressing. Livingstone had a Fiat car assembly factory, a Bata shoe factory and a textile mill that made blankets.
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Sister Bridgit, an inspirational young teacher at Luumono |
Shortly after the cheaper imports were allowed, these three factories were gone, taking hundreds (perhaps thousands) of relatively well-paid steady industrial jobs with them and casting the former employees back into the more precarious world of informal employment. It hardly seems the way to develop a modern prosperous economy, and it’s certainly not the route taken by Japan, South Korea, China, Malaysia and other Asian countries to raise the living standards of most of their populations. With a hotly-contested election coming up later this year, Zambians fear both more economic populism and real electoral violence.
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Zebras at the Royal Livingstone Hotel
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At the end of the day, Terri and I often went to a couple of riverside restaurants to take in the breathtaking sunsets. The Royal Livingstone has an air of colonial elegance and an unbeatable location, along with giraffes, zebras and impalas roaming the grounds. One of the giraffes, a big male named Bob, took a dislike to me and would advance menacingly if he caught sight of me. By the time we left Livingstone, Bob had been deported from the hotel back to a nearby national park for being aggressive with other hotel guests. Terri and I would sit watching the sunset, sipping drinks and watching the passing birdlife. It was Terri’s favourite spot to end the day. We also went to the Riverside restaurant, just up the river, with an equally lovely view but without the genteel air of the Royal Livingstone. Olga’s Restaurant, the Italian joint started as an IGA for YCTC (I feel like a proper NGO worker, spouting an alphabet soup of acronyms) and the Zambezi Café, a lively joint popular with the local Zambian middle class, were other frequent supper spots. Then we would return to YCTC, often in the darkness of a power cut, and sleep under our sagging mosquito nets.
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Bob the aggressive male giraffe
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Then, suddenly, the day of arrival was at hand and 15 Japanese high school students and Angela, their South African-born supervising teacher, were at the airport (sadly, without their luggage). The next 9 days passed in a blur, with work trips to the preschool, a cultural exchange with YCTC students, a class trip with one of the pre-school classes to a big cat centre and an amazing safari trip to Chobe National Park (across the Zambezi in Botswana, a trip which I will write about in a separate post). The trip, honed over the years by Terri, was a good mixture of activities for the students. Essentially Angela and the students had already done a lot of the hard work over the past 7 months in raising thousands of dollars to fund the project; that was their biggest practical contribution, and without that money Olive Tree wouldn’t be able to keep operating. At the same time, though, Terri wanted the students to learn through doing and contributing, so we put the students to work making construction blocks, repairing broken windows and repainting the original school building. They also taught lessons one day to the youngsters at Olive Tree, and escorted two or three pre-schoolers each on the trip to Mukuni Big Five, the cat sanctuary.
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Taro trying his hand at making construction blocks |
I think that it was important for the Kumon teenagers to see the results of their fundraising, the smiling, irrepressible youngsters in their neat uniforms lining up for school lunches, eager to show off their poems and songs. This sort of direct experiential learning leaves a much more lasting impression on teenagers than any number of academic lessons on the developing world.
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Kumon students scraping before repainting Olive Tree
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Taro discovers breaking rocks is tough
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Daiki with three Japanese JICA volunteers |
The impression can be so lasting, in fact, that students come back to Zambia on their own initiative to volunteer. While we were there we spent a lot of time with Daiki, a former Kumon student who was on Terri’s first-ever Zambia trip in 2007. He is now a graduate student in Switzerland, studying international development, and was on his second internship at YCTC. He said that it was only a few years after the trip that he realized what a profound effect the trip had had on his conception of the world, and he was keen to try to help the students on this year’s trip get the most out of their experience. It was great for me to have Daiki around as he was quite a good source of local information on what was going on at YCTC and in the wider community. He also organized three local Japanese overseas volunteers who were working in the neighbourhood to come have dinner with the Kumon students one night and give insight into the life of an overseas volunteer.
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YCTC dancers at the cultural exchange |
The cultural exchange program with the students at YCTC got off to a slow start, with the YCTC group very late in arriving from their classes, but once it got going, it was a very worthwhile experience, with the Japanese demonstrating some typical Japanese skills like origami, calligraphy and wearing a kimono, while a group of YCTC students showed off their drumming and dancing skills. Afterwards, there were throngs of Zambian students clustered around the tables getting their names written in Japanese characters or trying their hand at origami. I think it was a good chance to bridge the huge gap in affluence, experience and expectation between the two groups.
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Drummers at the YCTC cultural exchange
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Kumon students doing origami at the cultural exchange
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Cheetah at the Mukuni Big Five centre
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A caracal (African lynx) at the Mukuni Big Five |
The grand finale of the "service" part of the trip took place on Friday morning. Every year the youngsters who are finishing the reception class (kindergarten/pre-school) at Olive Tree take a class trip out to the Big 5 conservancy project at Mukuni village, near Livingstone. The Kumon students are all assigned two or three tiny Olive Tree pupils to look after during the visit, and it's sweet to see the tall Japanese teenagers hand in hand with a pint-sized Zambian tyke on each side walking to the bus, sitting together on the bus, and then escorting their tiny charges into the Big 5. For many of the Zambian children, it may be the first (or only) time in their lives that they come face to face with the charismatic megafauna that Westerners fly halfway around the world to see. It was wonderful to see the excitement in their eyes as we walked past the lions, cheetahs and caracals. The lions in particular took a keen interest in the small humans, sizing them up for a midday snack, and we were glad to have the strong chain-link fence between the felines and the pre-schoolers. When Terri walked past the enclosure with Terry the lion inside, as soon as she turned her back on the lion, he perked up his ears, tensed his muscles and charged at her retreating back, only prevented from leaping on her by the fence. It must have been a memorable and somewhat alarming visit for the Olive Tree children, and there were heartfelt goodbyes in the parking lot as they said goodbye to their protectors from Kumon.
After six whirlwind days of activity, hard work and service, it was finally a chance for the students to have a more touristy experience. We went to Victoria Falls (my first visit after being in Livingstone for two and a half weeks) and experienced the awesome volume of water hurtling over the precipice. At places the spray returning to the ground from the sky was like a second waterfall, drenching anything not protected by a waterproof rain poncho. We could only really see one half of the falls, as the Zimbabwean half was completely lost in the dense clouds of spray.
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Victoria Falls, aka Mosi Oa Tunya, "The Smoke That Thunders"
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Some of that Victoria Falls "smoke" |
The waterfall’s spray is visible from many kilometres away on a clear day and is perhaps the most impressive part of an impressive natural sight. That evening we had a celebratory dinner at the Royal Livingstone before heading off to the Chobe safari early the next morning.
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One final coat of paint for the classroom. |
When we came back from astounding Chobe, we had one final trip out to the Olive Tree, distributing some of the suitcases of donated clothing and sports equipment that the Kumon students had brought. We talked through the figures: the amazing amounts of money raised, and where that money was going to be spent. We talked about what their efforts meant in giving youngsters in the poorest part of a poor country a bit of a head start through providing them with a safe space to learn and enough food to eat to be able to learn. It was a bit heartbreaking seeing the crowds of youngsters from that neighbourhood who don’t go to school running wild in the streets, with little prospect of ever getting an education or a decent opportunity in life. The educational needs of the community are far greater than one small school can provide for, but it’s better to do what we can than to do nothing.
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Mr. Sakala, his family and the Kumon students
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As we waved goodbye to the Kumon group at Livingstone airport, it was a bit of a relief after 9 very intense days involving a lot of organizing and oversight, but it was also satisfying to have been part of providing both a possibly transformative educational experience to the Japanese students and a much-needed leg up to a worthy cause that is making a difference in the lives of a hundred families in Ngwenya township. My long-held skepticism of a lot of large-scale aid projects is still there, but a small, focused effort like Olive Tree really does seem to be an incredibly efficient use of resources to do the maximum good. There is still a ton of basic needs unmet in the townships around Livingstone (running water, sewage, electricity, health care, education) and it would be nice if the Zambian government did a better job of meeting these, but until (and if) that happens, projects like the Olive Tree will continue to play a vital role in trying to make a difference. I am immensely proud of Terri and the program she has built up over the years, and I was glad to play a small part in this year’s trip.
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Reunion with Natalie at the Royal Livingstone
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And then, once it was all over, it was time for us to handle the last bureaucratic paperwork and have some fun. On Monday, March 28th we met up with a former colleague of mine, Nathalie, who is now working at an international school in Lusaka. It was great to catch up with her and with the group of colleagues with whom we were travelling. Then on Tuesday Terri and I treated ourselves to a microlight flight over the falls. It was eye-wateringly expensive at US$ 165 for a 15-minute joyride, but it was a once-in-a-lifetime sort of thrill, and provided by far the best overall view of the falls, as well as glimpses of giraffes, buffalo and hippos in the surrounding national parks.
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Terri going for a microlight flight
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On Wednesday, March 30th we packed our bags, said goodbye to YCTC and to Mr. Sakala and caught a flight to Cape Town to start the next phase of our journey: our overland trip around Africa. More on that (and on the trip to Chobe) later!
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Moe, Terri and Angela and the impressive fund-raising figures
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Late afternoon light on the Zambezi |
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That smile says it all; it's why people volunteer
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